MOUNT GARGrampians National Park, Victoria 15.5km, 2 days Rising abruptly from the plains of western Victoria, the Grampians – also known buy their Aboriginal title of Gariwerd – are a wonderland of rocky ridges and wild mountain valleys. The classic two-day traverse of Mt Gar incorporates the features that have made Grampians-Gariwerd famous: high mountains, precipitous cliffs, wild mountain landscapes and even a couple of waterfalls. DAY ONE: Troopers Creek to Mt Gar, 5.4km 3-4 hours Starting the hike at Troopers Creek gives a great impression of both the impressiveness of the mountains you will be traversing and the effort that will be required, as the cliffs of the Mount Gar (Mount Difficult) Range tower overhead. It is difficult to see how a track could possibly negotiate them, but it begins gamely enough by following a sandy track for 500 metres to a large wind-scoured boulder nestled in the stringybark forest. 100 metres past the boulder the track begins to indicate just how you will ascend the peaks above, as it begins a relentless climb up the slopes at the base of the cliffs, switching back and forth until it reaches a rock outcrop under a cave at the base of the cliffs. After giving you a chance to catch your breath and soak in the view, the track continues uphill, winding through dry forest under the constant presence of the overhanging cliffs. It eventually reaches the base of the cliffs, signalled by an arrow on the rock , and heads north along a rocky ledge studded by rocks that have fallen from the cliffs above. This makes for fantastic walking, as you are alternately required to scramble over, shimmy around and crawl underneath the rocky obstacles. Eventually the track passes over the top of a seasonal waterfall and leaves the rocky ledge, heading uphill to a notch in the cliffs marked by a huge boulder. This is another great lookout, with the best views achieved by walking around the boulder to see the mountains on the far side. It is then a simple 500 metre walk up a rocky track to the campsite, which is nestled between a low cliff and the rocky upper slopes of Mt Gar, and is marked by a metal sign. The highlight of day one is still to come, as - after leaving your packs at camp - you head to the northern end of the campsite and follow the arrows up the rocky slope for 500m to reach the summit of Mount Gar. From here the true shape of the range is apparent: the cliffs form a huge arc around a central basin (now filled with the reservior of Lake Wartook), known to geologists as a geosyncline. Beyond the syncline, the lower ranges of Grampians-Gariwerd snake away to the park's northern tip at Mount Zero, while to the south the serrated peaks of the Serra Range and Mount Duwil (Mount William) peek above the nearer form of Mount Bagara (Mount Victory). At sunset the views are simply unforgettable. DAY TWO: Mt Gar to Briggs Bluff car park, 10.1km, 5 hours Following a leisurely breakfast (and if you are in the mood a slightly less leisurely ascent of the mountain for early morning views) take the track north from camp. The choice of routes is made considerably easier by the sign at camp, one of a number encounterd on day two. These are some of the best in any national park in Australia, with a simple schematic map of the tracks on the range embossed into the metal and a helpful 'you are here ' marker to ensure you are properly oriented. The next 2.9km is marked by another section of fantastic walking, as the track alternates between traversing rocky slabs and small ridgelines and diving into thickly vegetated rocky gullies. It is worthwhile keeping a keen eye out for the track though, which on the larger rock platforms is marked by small stone cairns. After an hour or so the nature of the track changes, and it leaves the broad ridgeline it has followed since camp and descends to a three-way track junction marked by another handy sign. The track coming in from the right has descended from the eastern flank of the range, and is sometimes used as an alternative to the walk you have just completed. This is certainly possible - it involvbes descending from the Mt Gar campsite to the base of the syncline and climbing up the other side - but the cliffs on the western side which you have just traversed are substantially larger and more impressive. From the junction take the route to Briggs Bluff for another 500m, crossing more rocky slopes and passing an alternative campsite before reaching another junction. Leave your packs here and head north, following the track and rock cairns to the base of the bluff, marked by a low cliffline pocked with caves. Another rocky scramble leads to the summit and more great views. To the north the plains reach into the distance; aside from a few low outback ranges they stretch uninterrupted for 3000km to the tip of Cape York. Needless to say, this makes a great lunch spot. After returning to your packs descend down through forest and under a rocky arch to a narrow valley, then swing north following rockm cairns on a route parallel with the cliffs until you are almost level with Briggs Blufff. At this point the track drops precipitously into yet another unique zone of fantastic walking, descending through a wilderness of stone towers, cliffs and bare rock. The landscape eventually narrows into a steep rocky valley, which ends abruptly at the top of Beehive Falls. Descend the rock steps carefully - this could be an easy place to loose your footing - to the base of the falls and a fine rest stop under an overhand. From here you can admire the oasis created by the falling water; Mud Hut Creek, which feeds the falls, is seasonal but there is enough moisture to keep them dripping and the microclimate humid all year round. The last section of the track is an easy half hour stroll through the forest to a car park on Roses Gap Road and a short 7.4km drive (or, if necessary, walk) to Troopers Creek. NEED TO KNOW The northen part of Grampians-Gariwerd is substantially drier than the ranges further south, and unless there has been recent rain you will be lucky to find any creeks running, so all water must be carried. You will also need a good selection of hiking gear and a good map - despite the best efforts of walkers leaving rock cairns it can be easy to get lost. Finally, it goes without saying to be very careful while you are in this area. As befits such a wild area there are no fences to keep you from straying to the edges of the cliffs, and several people have fallen to their deaths in Grampians Gariwerd in recent years. The national park lies close to the Western Highway, the main route between Melbourne and Adelaide, and to reach Troopers Creek hike take the junction with Roses Gap Road and follow it west into Barrigar (Roses Gap) then south as it swings down the western margin of the range. This is a multi-day walk and you will need appropriate equipment and supplies; make sure you check with the rangers that you have everything you need before you head out. OTHER THINGS TO SEE AND DO The Grampians are one of the great wilderness destinations in Australia, with dozens of walks that range from short strolls along bubbling creeks to major traverses of rocky ranges. They also feature abundant wildlife - try Halls Gap Oval for a great chance to see kangaroos - and have the richest record of rock art in Victoria. The best place to start any trip is at Brambuk the National Park and Cultural Centre, which as the name suggests combines a park information centre with cultural information and an award winning video that illustrates one of the stories of the indigenous people of the region. ACCOMMODATION AND SUPPLIES The closest towns are the tourist centre of Halls Gap and the large regional city of Horsham, both of which provide ample general supplies. MORE INFO Call Brambuk the National Park and Cultural Centre - (03) 5356 4381 - for more information and to register your intention to walk. More information on the park can be found in an excellent publication titled Discovering Grampians Gariwerd: A Visitors Guide to Grampians National Park, published by....Alistair and Bruce Paton! To purchase a copy visit our product page. These descriptions are a guide only. While we have made every effort to make them accurate, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained while using them. Make sure you use an up-to-date map and consult rangers before heading out. |